Jerusalem's People and Faiths

Christian Pilgrims in the Holy Sepulchre

Since I was a child I had stared at pictures of the Dome of the Rock and wondered what it would be like to stand in front of it and to pray inside. But you grow up and learn about the reality of war and occupation in the country. You watch the terror unfolding on your TV screen and the dream does not exactly die but it is a little bit more impossible. So when I finally arrived in Jerusalem in the early hours of the morning, I am sure you understand why I could barely contain my joy and excitement!

Many People, Different faiths

The very charm (and ultimately the problem) of Jerusalem is that it is not the sacred city of just one religion but of all the three monotheistic religions. In Islam, Jerusalem is the third holiest city and the site of the Prophet Muhammad’s (pbuh) ascension into heaven. For Jews it is the site of the Temple built by Solomon in the 10th century BCE and for Christians it is the city in which Christ was crucified and resurrected. It is real melting pot of people and ideas. I mean when was the last time you had to navigate the street with Armenian priests and Orthodox Rabbi's all on your way to Friday prayers?

To share such a holy city with so many is a real test of tolerance and understanding. Jerusalem's bloody history of ancient crusades and modern conflicts is an illustration of this inherent difficulty.

I took the very next opportunity to visit the Haram al-Sharif and I will never forget the moment my eyes fell on the Dome of the Rock and Masjid al-Aqsa. It all felt like such a dream. My only reassurance was that I never have vivid dreams and every little detail of calligraphy, glass mosaics and magnificent arch stood out with exquisite clarity. It was such a beautiful morning that I decided to spend my entire day walking around the Haram and praying in the mosques.

Although the Dome of the Rock was usually designated for women (especially during Friday Prayers) Masjid al-Aqsa was such a serene and calm place that I could not resist spending hours on end in there. The building has such a sense of history and spirituality that it just put me at ease. As soon as I stepped in, my worries just melting into the ether and as you can imagine it was hard to walk back out! My hotel is only a couple of minutes walk away I would reason to myself. Just one more hour and then I will head off...

Churches, Chants and Celebrations

Tempting as it was to spend all my time in the Haram al-Sharif, I decided to visit the sacred Jewish and Christian sites which are all conveniently located within a couple of minutes of each other.

Amongst Jerusalem's dazzling skyline of minarets, church spires and ancient monuments is the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Believed to be the place where Prophet Isa' (Jesus) rested between crucifixion and resurrection, it is always heaving with Christian pilgrims. It was fascinating to witness the prayers especially as I was lucky enough to hear the mass carried out in Aramaic by the Syrian Orthodox Christians.

Wondering down to the Wailing Wall on the Jewish Sabbath was honestly quite an eerie experience. The streets were completely isolated and the city seemed to have come to a stop when hordes of worshipers walked through the Jewish Quarter to the Wall. It was a mixed crowd of families, couples and groups of school friends who were happily chanting about Israel and Jerusalem.

Despite the conflict simmering under the surface, Jerusalem is a city of undeniably spirituality. From the adthan echoing in the Old City walls to colorful skullcaps on sale and chanting Christian pilgrims, it is hard to ignore its true beauty. I am really going to miss this city...

Arwa Aburawa is a freelance journalist based in the UK, who specialises in  local politics, Palestine, climate change, women's rights, and arts & culture. She can be contacted via her blog: http://voiceagainstempire.blogspot.com/ or website: http://arwafreelance.wordpress.com/