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left a traditional jallabiya, shal and 'immah, right is stylish, colored jallabiya with stitched shal and tagiya. (IOL photo)
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KHARTOUM — To dress-up in one’s traditional clothing has always been an important feature of `Eid for Sudanese men. But many youth today are slowly substituting style for tradition.
"It is important for Sudanese men to wear their traditional clothes, especially during the first day of `Eid," says thirty-year-old Usama Alasha.
"This means to wear a jallabiya (a long loose robe); a sarwal (loose pants): a tagiya (cap); an ‘immah (a long turban); a shal (shawl) and a markoob (leather shoe)."
Sudanese traditional jallabiyas, tagiyas and ‘immahs are usually white, sometimes beige.
"I prefer the traditional. It is [also] important for it to be tailored," Alasha continues.
‘Awad Mahmoud, 43, a tailor, recognizes that many Sudanese youth today don’t like to wear the jallabiya and ‘immah, at least till they are older, but he is not too worried.
"`Eid is our biggest season…many people come to us and say: 'I don’t wear the jallabiya but I will wear it for `Eid prayers'."
"It is a symbol of Sudan," he maintains.
Style Conscious
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"I like the jallabiyas; it represents Sudanese heritage," says tailor al-Qadir. (IOL photo)
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Alrazi Yassin, 24, however, would rather wait on wearing the ‘immah.
"I don’t mind the ‘immah, but I need to get older…after marriage," he laughs.
While Yassin admits that "it is very rare that any man would wear a shirt and pants during `Eid in Sudan," he prefers wearing the new tradition-inspired yet youth-oriented "sets"; jallabiyas, tagiyas and shals that come with fancy stitches but no ‘immah.
He also thinks that markoobs are for the older.
"I have not worn a markoob before. I prefer a nice sandal."
Markoobs are usually made of goat, snake, or leopard skin.
Another contemporary fashionable clothing based on tradition is the ‘Ala Allah. Literally meaning "let it be on Allah," but closer to the expression "whatever."
Mohammad ‘Awad, 32, believes that some youth prefer the ‘Ala Allah because "it is closer in style to wearing a shirt and pants, while jallabiyas are longer and drag on the ground."
The ‘Ala Allah is shorter than a jallabiya, reaching to just beneath the knee, similar to the Pakistani qamis.
It is also short sleeved, unlike the jallabiya’s long loose sleeves. It comes in a wider variety of colors including blue, burgundy and olive. Like the jallabiya, however, it is worn with a sarwal.
‘Awad does believe that jallabiyas and ‘immahs are nicer, but thinks that "many youth today find rapping the ‘immah around their heads to be difficult."
A traditional Sudanese ‘immah is four meters and a half long.
Sami Sinada, 49, is the owner of "Jallabiya Magic," a shop that sells traditional Sudanese clothing for men.
"Youth like change. The alternative to a shirt and pants is a 'modernized' jallabiya for `Eid," he says, describing the 'Ala Allah.
"Youth don't buy 'immahs from the store, unless it is a gift for their father or uncle."
Haider Abd al-Qadir, 54, is a tailor in Omdurman’s old market. He does not like the ‘Ala Allah.
"I don’t think it is beautiful," he says. "Youth wear it, not old folks. I like the jallabiyas; it represents Sudanese heritage."
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