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Cameroon's Palatable Dish Endangered

By Pius Lukong

14/07/2003

When eru is sliced and dried, it can keep for months

The story is told of a young African stopped at the airport as he tried to enter the United States of America. In his luggage, customs officials found packages of some thinly sliced, strange looking pieces of leaf. Suspecting that the young man was attempting to introduce some unknown drug into the new world, the customs officials promptly detained him and sent the content of his packages for laboratory analysis. A few days later, laboratory results cleared the young immigrant of potential drug trafficking charges, describing it as "a wild African weed with no hallucinatory properties and no nutritive value."

How wrong those laboratory technicians were about the vegetable not having any nutritive value.  Had anyone of them tried to test the wild African "weed" in a boiling pot with some meat, palm oil and all the right ingredients and spices, instead of in a lab, they might have discovered that what they had in their hands was nothing less than one of the most cherished vegetables south of the Sahara. This vegetable that thrives mostly in virgin forests is so much sought after, from Ghana to the Congo, that it might soon cease to exist.

Africa’s Eru Reaches for the Skies

It goes by the scientific name of Gnetum africanum. One of the commonest appellations used by English speaking Cameroonians is "Eru". The Beti community of Cameroon's forested East, Center and South provinces knows it as "Okok". This plant grows in the wild, deep in the forest. It extends 15 meters and above into tree crowns.

The liana has a powerful water conducting system and winds on undergrowth, especially in abandoned newly deforested areas. Apparently, the unique tropical forest environment favors its growth. Once the forest is cut down, to open a farm for instance, the eru vine shoots up again but soon dies. Eru never thrives in the open without the shed and humid conditions provided by the dense tropical rain forest.

Attempts by individuals and research groups to cultivate it have, to our knowledge, so far met with failure. The demand for eru for local consumption is extremely high especially within the Bayangi and Ejagham tribes of the Manyu Division in the South West Province for whom it is a staple food. Within this group, there is a popular adage that says, "He who climbs on the back of an elephant can harvest eru with his mouth."

Eru Endangered by Competitive Commercial Market

Gnetum africanum can reach as high as 15 meters in height

Nigerians, especially the Ibo, are also very eager customers of eru. So eager that they (mostly women) go right into the deep forests where it is found, often at about 15 to 20 kilometers from the village, to buy on the spot. The excessively high demand especially from Nigeria and Gabon has caused the local authorities to clampdown on eru exporters. The fear is that the ready market might cause the women to harvest it destructively or unsustainably. And this is just what has been going on with its introduction into the international market.

Officials of the Ministry of Environment and Forest (MINEF) have expressed their misgivings about Cameroonian village women selling to Nigeria with whom Cameroon is at war over ownership of the Bakassi peninsular. "Those Nigerian women cheat our women and buy the eru almost for nothing to carry home and sell at ten times the price offered here," a MINEF official regretted.

Such fears explain why the forces of law and order sometimes seize bagfuls of eru being transported by bus towards the South West Province, notably Tiko and Limbe, where many Nigerian women come to buy and carry across to Nigeria through the ready outlet by sea.

The new forestry law has attempted to rationalize the exploitation of non-timber forest products whose comparative importance as a source of income is receiving more recognition and attention.

According to this law, anyone wishing to indulge in forestry exploitation activities must possess the relevant authorization. This permit is issued by MINEF’s Department of Forestry. Most, if not all the women who harvest eru for commercial purposes do not possess this permit and are therefore acting in violation of the law.

This notwithstanding, the market for eru is a lucrative one that continues to draw a lot of "middlemen", especially the numerous unemployed female university graduates. Without a formal structure as such, these women have set up veritable networks, establishing very strong relations with steady customers who harvest the vegetable in the forests for their market.

They buy and stock in large bags that they convey by truck or taxi to the bus station. Here, they pay for the eru to be transported to another dealer waiting in Limbe. At that end, the dealer then sells it, often to another waiting customer who buys all the bags and pays on the spot. The money is sent back through the same channel to the middleman in Yaounde.

The middlemen are generally referred to as "buyam sellam". They buy the vegetable mostly at the Mfoundi market, one of the popular markets situated in Yaounde. Often, they visit the market in the evening between 6 and 8 p.m.; the time the women begin arriving from farms in the suburbs of Yaounde.

Usually, they arrive in overloaded pick-up vans where on arrival, buyam sellams will fall on the bags of eru basically fighting to get hold of them. "It is very tedious work", Elizabeth Bengono, one of the ladies that has been long in the business said; adding that "to do this work, you must be smartly dressed preferably in jeans except you have someone else to scramble over the bags for you."

It is not quite clear why demand for eru is high in the Yaounde region. But, it is popularly believed that it is of very high quality compared to that from other regions.

Because of the difficulties of buying eru in Mfoundi market, many well-to-do dealers now hire trucks that they drive right into the forest or village markets where the vegetable is sold at an extremely low price. Many of these dealers transport the eru past the poplar Tiko and Limbe markets to Idenau, almost at the border with Nigeria. Idenau is situated about 40 kilometers east of Limbe by the edge of the sea where a very lively market exists. Eru bought here is transported straightaway to Nigeria by motorized canoes.

Africans in the Diaspora Receive Eru ‘Rations’

Barely a few years ago, another thriving arm of the business was born. To furnish the huge west and central African populations in the diaspora who are used to eru and nostalgic about it, most of them in Britain, America, and France, numerous friends at home and entrepreneurs of varying caliber export the commodity to Europe and other parts of the world.

The eru is sliced, dried and packaged before exportation. Actually, in its fresh state, eru quickly rots if not prepared within a day or two. But when sliced and dried, as the young man who was stopped by U.S customs officials did, the vegetable can keep for months. In effect, eru is a species of plant with very rare characteristics. Individuals and research groups have attempted to cultivate it, notably the south Bakundu forest conservation project; but it has never quite worked. And it is hardly to succeed because the liana only seems to thrive in the humid conditions of the tropical thick forest.

Recently in Britain, a laboratory isolated an "active ingredient" from the vegetable. According to the Cameroonian botanist, Nkongmenneck Bernard, the scientists have not released the name of this active ingredient to protect their intellectual property rights.

The forest is fast disappearing due to extensive agricultural activities, logging, and bush fires, and given that no project seems to have succeeded in cultivating Gnetum africanum ex-situ, one begins to wonder for how long it will resist all these pressures.

Readers Comments


Pius Lukong is a Cameroonian senior journalist specialized in environmental and health issues.  Your emails will be forwarded to him by contacting the editor at: ScienceTech@islam-online.net. 

 
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