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An
American in Makkah
The
Hajj Experience of Convert Michael Wolfe
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I
am a Muslim. I revere the same Allah as my Christian mother and my
Jewish father. Allah is simply the Arabic word for the God of
Abraham, Moses and Jesus. I find the absence of priests and rabbis
attractive. Islam means acknowledging the oneness of Allah,
surrendering to it, cooperating with the way things are. Being a
Muslim, Allah is as near as the veins in my neck. During the Hajj
each year, millions of faithful come to Makkah. The men wear
lengths of unstitched cloth, the women simple garments. These
garments are a symbol that the person who wears them agrees not to
harm plants and animals or fellow pilgrims. No arguments, no
violence; we agree to keep the peace. The garments are a great
leveler too. Who can tell rich from poor?
Millions
descend on Makkah. Here I join people from all over the earth, all
these human beings drawn together by the call of an idea, by the
oneness of Allah. We have left daily life behind and come to a
place hardly belonging to this world, a place filled by the almost
tangible presence of Allah.
To
preserve its sanctity and protect pilgrims, the sacred territory
around Makkah is forbidden to all but Muslims. It lies hidden in
the mountains of Saudi Arabia, 50 miles (80.5 kilometers) from the
Red Sea, a modern city of 1.2 million people. To walk around the
block in Makkah is to walk around the world. I step out the door
and for the next 15 yards (13.7 meters) I’m in Indonesia. Down
the street, past a couple of stores, and it’s Africa. Pakistan is
just around the corner, and then I’m in Bangladesh. A vast
majority of the world’s one billion Muslims-80 percent-now live
outside the Middle East; there are more than five million in the
United States alone.
Muslims
Perform Sacred Duties
The
duties of the Hajj are symbolic of the story and obligations of
Islam. Before prayer, Muslims wash, representing ritual purity. The
walk around the Ka`bah-the black stone block in the great mosque-is
an expression of our desire to put Allah at the center of our
lives. Pilgrims also make a journey to Mina and to the plain of
`Arafat, 13 miles (20.9 kilometers) outside of Makkah.
Making
our way on foot, we trade city streets and buildings for tents and
carpets on the sand of the barren plain, giving up our usual
comforts, getting back to basics. On the plain of `Arafat, we
perform the central obligation of the pilgrimage, to be here
together from noon until sunset. There is no ceremony. We stroll,
we pray, we meditate. The Hajj goes on inside the hearts and
thoughts of each of us. This is a rehearsal for the Day of
Judgment. How will we account for our acts? Have I injured anyone?
Have I been grateful enough for the simple gifts of life, water,
food, friends, family and the air I breathe?
Before
leaving Makkah, we visit the Ka`bah one last time. For most of us,
this will be our last glimpse of the shrine. There is an old
proverb-before you visit Makkah, it beckons you. When you leave it
behind, it calls you forever.
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