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Lamu: Islamic Center and Home of the
Maulid*
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By Wanzala Bahati Justus**
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May 04, 2005
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Competitors line up with their beasts of burden just before the preliminary rounds of the donkey race which is a major attraction of the Maulidi festivals. |
The
great blue expanse of the Indian Ocean spurns a powerful wind steadily as
one waits to board a boat from the Kenyan shores of the Indian Ocean for the
archipelago of Lamu. Like most people on the East African Coast, the
inhabitants of Lamu are known as the Swahili—a group of people with mixed
Arab and African (Bantu) ancestry. Arabs are thought to have settled on the
island town in the seventh century. The old part of the town has in fact
been declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO. Other visitors to this
ancient town were the Turkish, Portuguese, and Chinese.
What
immediately catches the eye of the visitor on arriving at Mokoye jetty on
the mainland are the Swahili men, women, and children adorned in Islamic
attire, patiently scanning the waters in anticipation of a dhow—a boat
whose origin is Arabian and which is prevalent on the East African Coast.
There are approximately 250 such boats plying between the mainland and the
archipelago.
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The streets in the ancient town are narrow and lined with ancient buildings constructed hundreds of years ago. |
Where
the waves of the ocean pound against the bright sandy beaches, wooden
motorized boats of ancient design glide towards the port of Lamu. These
vessels have triangular white sails strapped on the poles as a backup, just
in case the engines fail. These boats are laden with fish, fruit, coconuts,
chickens, and all sorts of merchandise. Palm trees rustle in the hot breeze,
towering prominently in the skies on the island. Dhows and motorboats are
rushing to and from Lamu, loaded beyond capacity with human cargo.
Architectural
designs all over the island bear a heavy Arabic influence. Oceanfront
buildings are constructed with coral blocks that appear to have been hand
chiseled from quarries. Firmly attached to them are nicely decorated, very
heavy wooden doors. The oldest ones bear inscriptions in Arabic. Houses here
are neatly arranged and designed to allow the sea breeze to blow through the
streets, thus providing some relief from the otherwise offensive heat.
Lamu
town has narrow streets. That, however, is no impediment to the unceasing
movement of people in all directions. Walking these streets, one comes
across residents clad in their traditional clothes. Men wear kanzus,
(robes) and kofia (embroidered hats), while full length dresses, buibui,
are preferred by the women. Donkeys—a common means of transportation in
this island town, which boasts no less than two vehicles, both belonging to
government officials—also compete for space in the cramped lanes. Pulling
wooden carts, the donkeys thread their way through the human traffic.
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Competitors gallop away on saddleless donkeys. |
Donkeys
here are so much cherished that they hardly sport any scar or wound, unlike
their counterparts in most parts of Kenya. So important are these beasts of
burden, that they are used as dowry or mahari as it known in the
Swahili language.
This
is the part of the islands that annually hosts the historic Maulidi
festivities. Other islands in this region are Manda, Faza, Kizingitini,
Pate, and Kiunga. The Maulidi festival commemorates the birth of Prophet
Muhammad. The religious festival is said to have its origins in Egypt. It
was, however, introduced in Lamu by Habib Swalleh Jamal Lely, an inhabitant
of the Indian Ocean island of Comoros who migrated to Lamu in 1866. He
established a mosque in the town—the great Riyadha Mosque—and introduced
an East African version of the Maulidi. To date, the climax of the annual
festival, which normally takes place in early June, includes a procession
from Riyadha Mosque to the grave of Habib Swalleh. The celebrations, which
last for a week, are accompanied by much pomp and color, with thousands of
the town’s residents, old and young, being joined by visitors drawn from
as far as Malawi, South Africa, Mozambique, Comoro Island, Uganda, Somalia,
and Tanzania.
During
this period, the town, which is known as the heart and soul of Islamic
learning in the whole of East Africa, becomes a beehive of activity.
Abdullah Ali Muhammad, the chairman of the Lamu Boat Association, says that
during the Maulidi festivities business booms as thousands of pilgrims have
to be transported from the mainland to the island. He says that around this
time he can charge a total of KES40 ($0.50) per trip—an amount higher than
their normal rate. Muhammad says that safety measures are put in place to
ensure no accidents occur.
The
Maulidi ceremonies are both spiritual and cultural. The Riyadha Mosque hosts
the religious ceremonies, which include overnight prayer vigils,
contemplation accompanied by songs and rhythmic chanting, and narrating the
life history and achievements of Prophet Muhammad.
At
the mosque’s square, men also stage a traditional drum dance called goma,
in which they stand in line holding walking sticks. Swaying gently to the
beating rhythm of the drums, they stage mock fights, using sandals as
shields.
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Visitors from far and wide board a boat at the Mokoye jetty on the mainland which will take them to Lamu to attend the Maulidi festival. |
Other
cultural events include dhow races that are watched by many spectators, some
of them on rooftops and town piers and jetties. Football matches are also
organized and are a big attraction for both residents and visitors.
Swimming
is yet another activity that accompanies the festivities. Various Islamic
schools (madrasahs) participate in calligraphy competitions, while women
take part in henna design and painting competitions. A cross-country race
along the waterfront also adds spice to the festivities.
During
this competition, deafening roars of applause emanate from spectators as
they cheer their favorite competitors. Photographers and television
cameramen click and roll their films and tapes to capture these exciting
events.
One
of the games that require all one’s mental and physical concentration is
walking a greased wooden plank barefooted, with the gaping ocean underneath.
A flag is pegged at the far end of the lumber and one has to reach and
snatch it from its position. Whether one succeeds or fails to detach the
cloth, there is one sure destination: a spectacular plunge into the yawning
ocean! Reason enough to elicit cheers, congratulations, and laughter.
The
most popular event attracting unequalled attention is the donkey race.
Lamu’s jockeys spend a considerable amount of time practicing for this
event. Riders gallop along the edge of the island town, whipping and deftly
controlling their beasts of burden. They have to go through preliminary
rounds before the epic final that one cannot afford to miss!
A
local sheikh, Abdur-Rahman Badawy, says that the various events that
accompany the Maulidi festivities play a major role in preserving Swahili
culture. “These activities provide us with an opportunity to bring our
culture to the fore.”
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Being the only means of transport from the mainland to the island, boat services are usually on high demand during Maulidi festivals. |
The
National Museum of Kenya plays a pivotal role in the preservation of the
rich historical tradition of Lamu. It displays a number of ancient
artifacts, which attract a large number of tourists, and uses Maulidi
festivities to stage events designed to encourage local skills and crafts
that are central to Lamu life, such as Swahili pottery and Qur’anic
recitals.
The
residents of Lamu Island are very proud of their history and traditions. In
the celebration of Maulidi, they fuse together the past, the present, and
the future. As a community, they hold to strong religious and cultural
values. Perhaps this is one of the reasons why the island is one of the few
places where crime is negligible and where the people’s hospitality is
unrivalled.
*
If you want to learn more about the Swahili Coast click here (http://www.pbs.org/wonders/fr_wn.htm)
**Wanzala
Bahati Justus is a freelance
journalist based in Nairobi, Kenya. You can contact him through the
IslamOnline.net Art & Culture Page:
bridge@islamonline.net
References:
1.
Ministry of Information and Broadcasting, Kenya.
2.
Coast Express May 30, 2003.
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