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Waiting, Praying, and Hoping in Aceh

By Santi Soekanto
Freelance Journalist – Aceh

January 24, 2005

Meulaboh, Aceh, December 26, 2004 (Reuters photo)

“Please, we are looking for M. Nizar Zainun, his wife Setiawati, and their child Aisyah. Please pray for their safety … If you have any information of their whereabouts, please contact the following numbers…”

These words were written on a piece of paper that was stuck on a notice board at the Aceh Provincial Office of the Ministry of Social Affairs in Banda Aceh, which has now been turned into a refugee camp following the earthquakes and tsunamis that killed 107,000 people.

A picture of the missing couple and the child accompanied the notice. But while there are not many of such notices on this particular notice board, thousands others can be found everywhere in the capital city of Aceh. People desperate to learn about the fate of their missing loved ones posted such notices at various places—on the walls of shops and offices, by the bridges, and at any lampposts or pillars still standing after the quakes and tidal waves wrecked some 50 percent of the province’s infrastructure.

Those notices spoke of hope that, somehow, somebody would be able to tell the writers that their loved ones were still alive, or even dead—as long as the bodies could be found among thousands and thousands of corpses littering the roads and streets—so that the writers could finally lay the dead to rest, their fear and questions answered.

For days after the disaster struck on December 26, 2004, countless Banda Aceh residents walked around as if in a daze, trying to find their loved ones from under the rubble of buildings, among the mud and dirt that soiled what was once a beautiful city.


He started to accept that his family was no more.


With red-rimmed eyes swollen with too much crying, the zombie-like survivors lifted sheets, clothing, or anything that was used by others to cover so many dead bodies so that the flies would not approach, as the corpses had begun to decay. Trying to recognize a familiar face among so many bloated corpses, hoping against hope, every so often, they got disappointed.

They would continue walking—and they would lift the cover of yet another dead body.

There are happy stories, such as that of Teungku Raihan Iskandar, a local activist of the Justice and Prosperous Party (PKS), who lost one of his children for several days after the disaster. It was a harrowing time, but he kept on working to help the wounded and the homeless, and he responded, through interviews on the Jakarta-based Elshinta radio station, to countless requests for information on missing people. He kept on praying for the safe return of his child, and was finally reunited with him.

There are sad stories. Sayed Muhammad, yet another Muslim activist, remembers hugging his three-month-pregnant wife who dropped him off for a meeting at the provincial office of the Indonesian Association of Muslim Intellectuals. “Don’t worry so much about the earthquake; everything will be fine,” Sayed said, kissing her goodbye.

She left. Minutes afterwards Sayed thought he heard thunder—which was actually the noise of the giant tidal waves crushing Banda Aceh and much of the province’s western coast. He was safe where he was, but his wife and two young children were nowhere to be found.

Like many other people, he fought rising desperation and walked for so many kilometers trying to find his family. He kept searching around what was formerly his neighborhood until he started to accept that his family was no more.

He held back tears, telling himself that if Allah took back what He had given him, he would only pray that one day—in this world or the Hereafter—he would be reunited with his wife and children. Then he started to busy himself: he opened a temporary school for some 350 children at a refugee camp in Darussalam area—close to the Grand Baitul Rahman mosque—in Banda Aceh.

Only once did he weep: when he saw the ultimate humiliation human beings could suffer—namely when their dead bodies were shoveled with heavy equipment, thrown in an open truck, and dumped into mass graves.

“Why are people being treated like animals? To be dumped like that, to have to go without prayers being said over their bodies, without the shroud?” his voice cracked and tears streamed down his face.

Raihan was fortunate not to have to post a notice. Sayed did not feel the need to do so. But thousands others tried to cling to any shred of hope they could find. They still tried to communicate to their missing loved ones. They waited, prayed, and hoped.

Santi Soekanto  is a journalist with 17 years of experience. Among the posts she has held is national desk editor at The Jakarta Post. She can be reached at santi_soekanto2001@yahoo.com .

The articles posted on this page reflect solely the opinions of the authors.

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