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African
Oils: Health and Beauty from the Motherland
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By
Stephanie Rose Bird
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19/10/2003 |
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For
a time in my life, my morning was not off to a proper start unless I watched my
favorite programs. Like many women
and men for that matter, Oprah was an important element of my morning ritual. When you watch talk shows day after day, at a certain point
it is difficult to recall the idiosyncrasies of each show—we are awash in an
experience. It is telling then,
that I can recall the particular morning when Oprah announced that hair grease
(pomades, balms, salves) was bad for black hair—this delivered poignantly, as
usual, tossing her well-coifed hair, to and fro, to punctuate the statement.
I had to scratch my own itchy cornrows in dismay wondering what to do, as
oils traditionally eased the tough transitional days of this hairstyle.
Fragrant
baths, floor washes, powders, bath crystals, incense, anointing and blessing
oils, as well as fresh aromatic flowers have been employed in our folk medicines
since the earliest records of our existence.
Pomades
Unguents,
which we now call pomades, were used approximately 5,000 years ago according to
cave walls on the Tassili plateau in the Sahara and Algiers.
Women, with what appears to be cornrowed hair, are having a substance
(assumed to be unguent) applied to their braids and scalp.
Women had their hair and bodies anointed with fragrant pomades and
botanical oils, assured of the oils medicinal powers.
Women perfumed themselves by sitting over or near burning pots of
sandalwood or aromatic substances [similar to smudging or smoke bath].
Fragrant flowers, among other natural objects worn on the body, served as
protection amulets (Yarbrough, C. 2002).
In
Ancient Egypt, women are depicted wearing cone-shaped unguents on their heads. These cones were either representative of all of the pomade
previously applied or actual cones that melted from body heat, perfuming and
conditioning the hair (illustrated in stele, papyri and cave art from various
civilizations) (Jeffries, R. 1988). Moreover,
ancient Egyptian papyri list hundreds of curative properties of oils, so oils
are not simply glop for the hair
but are useful medicines (For medicinal benefits use pure botanical oils.
Petroleum and other fossil fuel by-products should be strictly
avoided).
Madame
C. J. Walker became the first Black millionaire in the United States in the
early twentieth century from sales of her miraculous, herbal hair growth pomades
and other botanical products. Afro
Sheen™, Dixie Peach™, Dax™, Bergamot ™ as well as the herbal blends of
tallow and lanolin have been used for decades by African Americans to treat
scalp disorders and encourage hair growth.
Over the years, synthetic and petroleum products dominated the formulae
and their use dwindled. Today,
there is a virtual pomade renaissance. African Pride ™ and African Root
Stimulator ™, prominently feature aromatic herbs like sage, rosemary, lemon
verbena, neroli, patchouli, lemongrass and even kola nuts in a shea butter or
olive oil base. Pomade has regained
popularity, unrestricted by ethnicity or race.
As
we return to our roots, many of us no longer wear our hair blow-dried or
relaxed. We have gone back to the way of our ancestors to embrace braids,
twists, knots and locks. Those who
wear straight hairstyles realize that they too benefit from hot oil treatments,
as hot oils are currently enjoying an overall surge in popularity at
salons.
I
would like to share the benefits of a few African oils and will follow up with
suggestions for using them. As you
read on you will notice that I have included other factors that make natural
oils appealing; their sale helps generate income for rural African women, they
are good for multiple health functions and they are good for the environment. Further, wildcrafted, organic, cold processed oils are
commonly obtained from Africa, very different from the expensive proposition
that occurs when buying wildcrafted oils elsewhere.
Shea
butter and neem are currently enjoying the limelight so let’s begin with
them.
Shea
Tree Distribution and Uses
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Shea
butter is produced from the nut of the Shea tree |
The
shea tree is a member of the Sapotaceae family Vitellaria parasoxa
(C.F. Gaertin; Boffa, J.M; Yameogo, G; Nikiema. P; Knudson, D.M, 2003) formerly
called Butryrosperum paradoxum (Henry et al. 1983).
The shea tree is native to Benin, Burkina Faso, Cameroon, Chad, Cote
d’Ivoire, Ghana, Guinea, Mali, Niger, Nigeria, Senegal, Sudan, Togo and
Uganda. Shea trees grow for 150-200
years. The nut is almost 50% fat
(International Centre for Research in Agroforestry).
Shea butter is called Karite in the Dioula language.
Shea has been traded since the 14th century (International
Centre for Research in Agroforestry). Today
shea butter is the third highest export product in Burkina Faso (World Bank,
1989). It is one of the few economic commodities under women’s
control in Sahelian Africa. Women
farmers have tenderly cared for the trees for hundreds of years.
In
Africa and around the world, shea butter is utilized for its ability to soothe
children’s skin and soften mature skin; protect against sunburn; prevent
chapping and irritation; and to treat ulcers and rheumatism (International
Centre for Research in Agroforestry).
Shea butter is a superior fatting agent in herbal soaps.
The emollient, softening quality of shea butter makes it useful for hand
or foot treatments and hair and body care, as it is easily absorbed when applied
topically.
A
Tree of 40 Cures: Neem Tree
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Blending
Good Health with Good Business: The African Shea Butter Company
African
Shea Butter Company is a woman owned and operated firm founded by a devout
American Muslim with 10 children.
During the process of interviewing Tammie Umbel, founder of this
company, it was apparent that her main objective is to generate support
for the indigenous plant wisdom and diverse cultures of Africa.
Umbel obtains her Black Soap from Muslim soap makers, wrapped in
African fabric and indigenous plants.
Umbel is beginning to carry products from women’s cooperatives
such as lemon grass and bourbon geranium essential oil.
The African Shea Butter Company also offers black cocoa butter,
creamed coconut oil and traditional carrier oils such as baobab oil and
incense. |
Neem
has a distinguished history in India. In
the Sanskrit language it is known as Nimba, a derivative of the term Nimbati
Swastyamdadati (to give good health) (Neem Foundation, 1997).
Neem has been naturalized over the past hundred years in coastal East and
West Africa. Known as the “tree
of 40 cures” neem is called Mwarubaini in the Kiswahili language
(Kimathi, H. 2003). Neem is an
eco-friendly tree since its leaves quickly decompose, forming nourishing mulch
for plants that surround it.
The
leaves, seed kernel and bark of neem trees are all useful.
The tree has antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral and infertility
qualities. The neem kernels contain
about 45% oil making it an effective emollient.
Useful in the treatment of ringworm and other fungal infections, neem is
also highly regarded for maintenance of scalp, hair, skin and nails.
African
Oils
Though
the following oils are less familiar than shea, neem or even palm and coconut
oils, they still hold promise. Most
of these oils are organic, cold pressed and wildcrafted by women.
Balanities
trees are found in most arid, semiarid to sub-humid tropical savannahs, hot dry
areas along waterways and forests (Rulangaranga, 1989), and are native to the
Sudano-Sahelian zone, Palestine and Jordan (EROS Data Center, 2003).
Balanities trees are flexible but they cannot tolerate prolonged flooding
(Kew, 1984).
30-40%
of the balanities seed is oil. The
plant is useful as a soap substitute since it has high saponin content.
Locally, balanities is useful in treating sore throat, colics, mental
diseases, epilepsy, toothache and it serves as a laxative (EROS Data Center,
2003). Balanities may be useful to
those with over-processed hair. Analgesic
qualities lend balanities oil the ability to sooth the scalp.
As an astringent oil, balanities should be combined with other emollient
ingredients like avocado, jojoba or castor oil when used on dry brittle hair.
Baobabs
grow in arid, semi-arid and sub-humid tropical climates (Baobab Fact Sheet,
International Centre for Underutilized Crops, 2003). Extremely long-lived, a baobab’s lifespan is between 1,000
and 3,000 years. The baobab tree is
such a rich reservoir of mythology, folklore and medicines that is has become
emblematic of Africa. The seeds
contain pulp with numerous uses. The
vitamin C content of the fruit averages 300 mg/100 g, nearly 6 times higher than
an orange (PhytoTrade Africa, 2003). Baobab is also rich in vitamins B1, B2,
phosphorous, iron, trace minerals and protein.
It contains Essential Fatty Acids (EFA’s) and Poly-saturated Fatty
Acids (PFA’s), lending medicinal and food value.
Baobab oil is useful in cooking and cosmetics. The nutritious oil has a faint aroma making it suitable for
massage and natural products. Baobab
has a long shelf life, making it suitable for international shipping and storage
(Baobab Fact Sheet, International Centre for Underutilized Crops).
Cape
chestnut oil is a cold processed, organic oil, grown and wildcrafted in Mt.
Kenya’s forests. Cape chestnut
oil offers natural ultra violet protection, contains EFA’s and antioxidants,
and has a mild smell. The purity of
the oil coupled with its mild odor and health benefits make Cape Chestnut Oil an
ideal base for hair conditioning as well as for creating homemade natural
cosmetics.
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Jatropha |
Jatropha
oil is rich in glycerin making it useful in various hair, scalp and skin
treatments. In 1999, the
Alternative Resource for Income (ARI) project successfully mobilized women to
produce handmade soaps from Jatropha oil to fight skin ailments such as eczema,
acne, rashes, psoriasis and fungus (Arusha Times, 9/9/02).
Jatropha contains constituents capable of attacking infections of the
scalp that normally deter hair growth. Jatropha
oil is also being tested as an eco-friendly automobile fuel.
comes
from Tanzania. Kweme is used
locally as a breast massage to encourage milk flow.
The benefits of kweme are derived from its concentration of essential
fatty acids, polyunsaturated fatty acids and iodine. Kweme has a long shelf
life. Oils like kweme that are high
in EFA’s bring out the luster in dark hair and may stimulate growth.
Moringa
oil comes from Egypt, the Sudan and
the Arabian Peninsula. Moringa has
a long history recorded in Egyptian medical papyri as a woman’s pregnant belly
rub, called ben. Moringa contains
seventy-three percent oleic acid and other nutrients. Today, Moringa is also used in soap, as lamp fuel, in
perfumes and skincare. This oil
makes a delightful vehicle for essential oils.
Tips
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To
use shea butter, scoop out some shea butter, slowly rub it between your
palms and it will melt from your body heat.
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For
healthy nails, soak hands or feet (one at a time) in a bowl of warm neem.
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Counteract
the strong smell of neem with lemongrass essential oil to counteract its
nutty scent. Use 1/8 teaspoon
per 8 ounces of neem.
Sources:
Yarbrough,
C. (2002) Female Style and Beauty in Ancient Africa.
Civilizations 6:1 Sertima, I.V. editor, Black Women in Antiquity (1984)
New Brunswick and London: Transaction Publishers
Jeffries,
R (1988) The Image of Woman in African Cave Art. Ibid.
FAO
(1989) International Centre for Research in Agroforestry
Boffa,
J.M.; Yameogo, G; Nikiema, P; Knudson, D.M. Shea Nut Production and Collection
in Agroforestry Parklands of Burkina Faso. DOCREP
Neem
Foundation (1997) The Neem Tree an Introduction and History
Kimathi,
H. (2003) Neem: The Wonder Tree. CAHNET News
World
Resources Institute (1992) Women and Biodiversity
Phytotrade
Africa; Baobab Fact Sheet
Henry,
A.N.; Chithra, V. & Nair, N.C. (1983) Vitellaria vs. Butyrospermum (Sapotaceae).
Taxon 32:286
World
Bank (1989) Burkina Faso p. 45-50. Trends in Developing Countries. Washington,
D.C.FAO (1989) Forestry and Food Security. FAO Forest Paper 90. FAO, Rome. 128
p.
Kew,
(1984) Royal Botanic Gardens. Forage and Browse Plants for Arid and Semi-Arid
Africa. International Board for Genetic Resources: Royal Botanic Gardens.
Tredgold,
M.H. (1990) Food Plants of Zimbabwe. Harare: Mambo Press
Rulangaranga,
Z.K. (1989) Some Important Indigenous Medicinal and Aromatic Plants in the Wild
Flora of Tanzania Mainland. Tropical Forest Action Plan, Working Paper 24.
Tanzania: Ministry of Lands, Natural Resources and Tourism, Dar es Salaam
Fernandez,
E. C. Balanities aegyptiaca (L.) Del. International Agroforestry
Resources: Tree and Shrub Species Archive
EROS
Data Centre, International Program, Cape Chestnut Tree
Staff
Writer (9/9/2002) Jatropha Oil, Women’s Fuel Project Arusha Times
Stephanie
Rose Bird is an African American writer dedicated to writing about the
natural world. She is an herbalist and aromatherapist and a member of the
Herb Research Foundation and a professional member of the Handicrafted Soap
Makers Guild. Stephanie is currently an independent scholar but
formerly held the position of Assistant Professor and Adjunct Assistant
Professor at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, IL. She is a
columnist for “Sage Woman” Magazine and her work has also been published
by "Natural Home”, "The Herb Companion”, "Llewellyn's
Herbal Almanac”, "Llewellyn's Magical Almanac” and "The Beltane
Papers.” She can be reached at: stephanierosebird@womanmade.net
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