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The Quest for Beauty

By Hwaa Irfan

23/05/2002

Makeup contains harmful chemicals.

Some say that true beauty is inside rather than on the outside. If this were true, then many people would reconsider what skin products they use. Many skin products on the market today are harmful and can cause toxic build ups in the body which can lead to skin outbreaks or internal diseases. The situation is made worse by the fact that many of these products are applied to the outside of the body but are actually absorbed by the skin.

The skin, and not the large intestine, is the largest organ of elimination and the largest organ of the body. It is also the largest organ of absorption. The skin absorbs chlorine from the water when people swim in pools and absorbs oxygen from the air around it. In aromatherapy, special oils are absorbed into the skin to promote healing. However, when the wrong substances are used on the skin outbreaks can occur like dermatitis or eczema or hives. 

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition (CFSAN) estimated that $35 billion is spent in the U.S. annually on cosmetics alone (FDA-CFSAN #2, p.2).

This is a staggering figure for an industry that remains largely unaccountable for its products. Under the Food and Drugs Administration and Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition’s voluntary “Cosmetics Compliance Program,” it is acknowledged that some cosmetics may also be drugs “intended to cure, mitigate, treat or prevent disease, effect the structure or function of the human body” (FDA-CSFAN #1, p.2). However, without complete regulation, the claims of the cosmetics industry continue to go relatively unchallenged. In response to concerns, the European Union Scientific Committee recently called for a blanket ban on all confirmed and possible carcinogenic, mutagenic and reprotoxic substances in cosmetics without a prior assessment (ENS, p.1).

However, in the U.S. and Canada, as well as other countries there are no such laws. And in no country are there any mandatory tests for scented products that can cause chronic neurotoxic effects. Voluntary withdrawal is the only thing that has taken most substances off the market. Musk AETT (tetralin) and Musk Ambrette had been used for 21 years before they were pulled from the market. The former caused permanent brain damage in laboratory animals and vascular degeneration of the brain. Musk Ambrette caused central and peripheral nervous system damage (Barrett, p.1)  

Oftentimes skin outbreaks can be a direct result of use of scented products, cosmetics and medications as well as metals and poisonous plants (Stein, p. 294). One example of a dangerous skin product is the skin peeler. In 1994, the FDA received 22 complaints about the chemical alpha hydroxyl acid (AHA) found in skin peelers (Dori, p.1). It can still be found in skin care products. However, studies concluded that AHA not only removed the dead skin cells but also removed the skin’s protective barrier. This can cause long-term skin damage (Penn, p.1). 

Because the skin does breathe oxygen, healthy skin needs oxygen and needs to release carbon dioxide. However, if too many products are slathered on the skin, it can inhibit the natural cycle. Although ingredients with chemical sounding names may sound impressive many of them are actually harmful. Mineral oils, for example, found in skin creams are actually from crude oil. They can form an oily layer on the skin and suffocate it. In holding large amounts of moisture on the skin it causes immature, unhealthy and sensitive skin that dries out easily (Penn, p.3). In such cases people usually buy more skin cream, however, this just continues the cycle.  

One of the foremost preservatives used is formaldehyde. U.S. made cosmetics may include Quaternium 15, a formaldehyde- releasing agent found in deoderized soaps, mascara, talcum powders, foundation creams and firming facial creams. Formaldehyde is also in shampoos, conditioners, fluoride toothpaste, mouth -washes, haircolors and nail varnish. Some companies, like the Garden Botanika, even sell “natural” cosmetics that contain diazolidinyl urea – a formaldehyde releasing preservative (scidiv, p.1). Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen (Penn, p.3). 

Soap products contain SLS.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLS) and Ammonium Laureth Sulfate are detergent emulsifiers added to many cosmetics to remove oil and soil from the skin. A study in the Journal of American College Toxicology found that the longer these chemicals stayed in contact with the skin, the greater the irritation (CIR, p.1). Common in shampoos, Tom Mower’s of Images International found SLS inhibited hair growth, caused hair loss and could even cause cataracts if it got into the eyes (Miller, p.1). Industries use SLS as a garage floor cleaner and an engine degreaser. SLS is known to cause potentially carcinogenic nitrates to form in skin cleaners from its reaction with other ingredients. It is cheap and small amounts are required to generate a large amount of foam. However, SLS has a systemic effect, causing liver abnormalities and kidney damage when in contact with the skin. It is retained in the eyes, brain, heart, liver and kidneys with potential long-term effects (Penn, p.4).

The Canadian government has already prohibited the use of chloroform, estrogenic substances and mercury; which can all be found in cosmetics. Mercury compounds, found in eye make-up, can be easily absorbed through the skin and accumulate in the body. Chloroform, another widely used ingredient in skin care products, is a known carcinogen (Barrett p.1 & FDA-CSFAN #2, p.1, 2).  

Other ingredients on the FDA Prohibited Ingredients list as of the year 2001 are hexachlorophene which penetrates the skin and has a neurotoxic effect, bithionol, and halogenated salicylanilides which increase photosensitivity and zirconium which is toxic to lungs through inhalation (FAD-CSFAN #2, p1, 2). Propylene glycol found in facial moisturizers and hand body lotions has a systemic effect causing liver abnormalities and kidney damage. It is also used as an industrial anti-freeze and a brake and hydraulic fluid (Penn p.3, 4). 

Ingredients currently under scrutiny by the FDA are alkanolamines and nitrosome agents like Bronopol, Onyxide 500 and Bronidox L. These combinations form nitrosamines, which are reported animal carcinogens (FDA-CSFAN #2, p.3). They can be found in sun-tanning preparations. 

Because of recent fears over the effects of toxins in and on the body, the local and International natural cosmetics market is booming, However, John Bailey of FDA said, “There are no standards for what ‘natural’ means and who’s to say what they’re actually using.” The cosmetics trade journal Drug and Cosmetic Industry stated “All plants (including those in cosmetics) can be heavily contaminated with bacteria, pesticides and chemical fertilizers widely used to improve crop yields” (Dori, p.4). For example cerebrosides in skin products provide a smoother skin surface. Marketed as “luminous” and “improved hydration”, they are produced from the deepest layer of the skin. Secreting into outer cells, they serve as a protective coating, providing the skin’s moisture and suppleness. The raw material for cerebrosides comes from cattle, oxen and swine nervous system tissues and occasionally plants (Foulke, p.2).

Many people have concluded that it is better to use homemade skin care products of which there are endless varieties. Papayas, eggs and even sunflower oil can be used in these preparations. Many books and websites are dedicated to the making of natural skincare products at home.

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