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A
car bomb explosion in Baghdad
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Dr.
Gert van Moorter, from the Belgian NGO Medical
Aid for the Third World, heard the explosion that destroyed
Baghdad’s Mount Lebanon Hotel and identified the location from
the plumes of smoke and flames leaping skywards, visible from
behind the great turquoise and gold dome of the Mosque in
Al-Firdaws Square, where Saddam’s statue was toppled on April
9th last year. With his colleague Marc, a Red Cross volunteer,
they rushed by taxi to the scene to render assistance.
They were met by a scene of carnage and “chaos,” says van
Moorter. “Cars… surrounding houses on fire… people looking
for survivors in the debris.” Identifying themselves as medics
to an Iraqi policeman trying to bring some order to the mayhem,
with people literally falling over each other in their efforts
to gain access and aid victims, the two were allowed in, whilst
others were held back.
Firemen
were desperately trying to bring the flames under control.
Although the first ambulances had already left, no emergency
medical post had been set up; and the two quickly worked out the
most constructive course of action. To their relief, the
American military arrived: constructive assistance and
sophisticated medical facilities were now within reach, they
assumed. It was not to be: “A soldier shouted at me that I had
to go. I told him that I am an emergency doctor, checking to see
if I could help. He pushed me roughly and repeated that I had to
go. When I persisted, he shouted, ‘Show me your card.’”
Van Moorter produced his Medical Aid for the Third World ID with
a photograph. “He looked at it… then threw it on the ground,
saying, ‘We do not need your help.’”
Van Moorter says he could “hardly believe” what was
happening. “Is this the American way of helping people?” he
asks. “Go one step further and you will be arrested,” the
soldier told him. Now surrounded by four armed soldiers who were
“very tense,” he decided it prudent to comply - “but
inside I was boiling… such arrogance, such impoliteness…”
and precious time being wasted.
“He
looked at [my Medical Aid for the Third World ID]… then
threw it on the ground, saying, ‘We do not need your
help.’” |
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“Whether
the victims needed help was simply not of concern.” When a
senior officer arrived, arrest seemed inevitable, but sanity was
restored when he beckoned to them and took them to a nearby
hospital, which was being evacuated, and requested that they
help. It will never be known, however, whether there were
precious lives that might have been saved in those lost minutes
of man’s inhumanity, lives of those “it is not productive to
[body] count” lying in the rubble - in US army vernacular,
they are lesser beings - “Hajjis” and “Towelheads,” just
as the Vietnamese (in another American disaster of historic
proportions) were “gooks,” “dinks,” “dopes” and
“slopes.”
At the hospital, an Iraqi doctor, himself injured in the leg,
requested they take a patient who had just had a stomach
operation to the Nafez Hospital. The request brought back
memories. “Entering the ambulance, I remembered April 9th last
year, as the US soldiers shot their way into the city. We were
taking two wounded patients there. US soldiers shot at the
ambulance. Both young men died of their injuries.”
At the Nafez the wounded were arriving, and van Moorter, finally
able to utilize his skills in emergency medicine, asked for
surgical gloves. “Maku” - (none). Bandages: Maku. He
bandaged George, an Iraqi with a wounded arm, with the
latter’s
shirt. George had multiple injuries (in his head, ear and ribs),
was fainting and nauseous, and needed plasma, to balance falling
blood pressure, and medication, to prevent vomiting. Maku, maku.
“A year after the fall of the regime, in the four hospitals I
have visited [since returning to Iraq], there has been no
improvement over the thirteen disastrous sanctions years. All
vital materials are missing and old equipment is a year older;
more has broken down irretrievably - and for the rest, there is
just a lot of ‘maku.’”
George needed a comprehensive check up and - vitally - a scanner
for his head injuries. Maku. An aged X-ray machine is just
functioning. George constantly lost consciousness, and, in
absence of the treatment he needed, van Moorter was reduced to
slapping his cheeks to keep him awake, fearing that he would
slip into an irreversible coma. “I asked him if he knew where
he was. ‘In hell,’ he replied. ‘Then I am the devil,’ I
said. He laughed, which was a good sign.”
The hospital received fifteen victims, two dead on arrival and
two referred elsewhere for neurosurgery. Treating a less injured
Lebanese victim for face wounds, an Iraqi nurse began to
disinfect the cuts using a cotton wool swab - the same piece for
each wound. Cotton swabs too: almost maku.
Van
Moorter asks for surgical gloves. “Maku” - (none).
Bandages: Maku. Cotton swabs too: almost maku. “A year after
the fall of the regime… there is just a lot of
‘maku.’” |
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Near
midnight they headed for their hotel. Unable to find a taxi, a
passing motorist offered to drive them “for free.” He had
worked for the American army for a while as an interpreter, but
he later quitted. “They are crazy, those Americans.” Stopped
at a checkpoint, he showed the soldiers something and was
allowed to proceed with remarkable speed; what was the trick?
“Easy. You show them something with an American flag on it.”
He had a small case with the flags of the US, Great Britain and
Australia, with “Operation Iraq Freedom” also written on it,
and his driving permit inside. Iraqis are past masters at
telling people what they want to hear - they have, after all,
had generations of practice.
Van Moorter ponders on Iraq’s newfound freedom: “As we
returned, shooting was again taking place.” Freedom has made
the country one of the most dangerous on earth. “Freedom not
to get appropriate medical care; freedom to get laid off;
freedom of speech so long as you say the right things. Above all
it is America’s freedom to control the oil, to shoot at whom
and when they want, to stop a doctor treating the injured. What
is the future of this country?”
At the hospital, the families of the injured thanked the two for
their help. “I said we have to thank them that we were able to
help them. It is always greater to be able to help than be
helped.”
Shortly after the terrible events at Baghdad’s Mount Lebanon
Hotel, a friend wrote to van Moorter about the two to three
thousand strong demonstration, which Iraqis launched to mark a
year since the invasion took place, and to demand that foreign
troops withdraw. It began after Friday prayers. Van Moorter’s
friend wrote, “I marched with them - first, with a group of
Sunni Muslims,” then they waited for the people coming out of
a Shiite Mosque on the other side of the Tigris river. “It was
a beautiful moment to see important Imams of both religious
groups joining hands.” This time the occupiers were not being
told what they wanted to hear. Streamers and banners had harsh
words about Iraqis’ plight and their feelings towards their
“liberators.”
With some truly indomitable and courageous foreigners in Iraq
who ask only to help, not to interfere, and with the near-unique
Iraqi inventiveness, there will be future for Mesopotamia, this
ancientest “land between two rivers.”
In the 1920s, when spying for the British, in another ultimately
ill-fated Mesopotamian adventure, Gertrude Bell wrote of the
Iraqis, “The enterprise, the rigours, the courage…” In
spite of all, it is still undiminished. The US-driven embargo
killed as many as Pol Pot’s victims, and this has been
Iraq’s Year Zero; but the coalition of the arm-twisted and
unwilling is unraveling, and - as throughout history - the
invaders will have to leave. And Iraq will, once again, rebuild.
Felicity
Arbuthnot is a journalist and activist who has visited
Iraq on numerous occasions since the 1991Gulf War. She has
written and broadcast widely on Iraq, her coverage of which was
nominated for several awards. She was also Senior Researcher for
John
Pilger’s award-winning documentary - Paying
the Price Killing the Children of Iraq.
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