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Sights and Sounds at the Al-Ansaar Souk of Durban

Bibi Ayesha Wadvalla **

Feb. 6, 2006

Durban by sunset

The night was hot and the air, heavy with humidity, resounded with the soft beat of a dhuff (hand drum). Male voices singing the praises of Allah were heard over the rhythm of the drum. Their voices rose and fell with emotion. Throngs of people crowded the outdoor arena, queuing up to savor the global food delights on offer. Families and friends relaxed, soaking up the atmosphere. A soft drizzle started to fall, but the rain did not dampen the spirits of those gathered. On stage, the nasheed artists continued to regale the audience with their melodies.

It was the start of the festive season and the coastal city of Durban was packed with activity. The beaches were filled with celebrators, and elsewhere people partied into the wee hours of the morning.

At the Durban Exhibition Centre, a unique event took place. Analogous to a Middle Eastern bazaar, the annual Souk and Family Trade Fair was held by the Al-Ansaar Foundation. What started out as a combined Hajj seminar and small flea market in 1999, has grown into the massive event it is today. The 2005 Souk and Family Trade Fair was a 10-day event, with ticket sales reaching well over 100,000.

Brother Riaz Jamal, the station manager of Radio Al-Ansaar explained, "The response to the flea market was enthusiastic, so we saw a niche for alternative entertainment, which, very importantly, has an Islamic ethos. The idea of the Souk was born, and we were overwhelmed by the positive reaction from the public."

In South Africa, the Muslim community is a minority. Muslims comprise just two percent of the South African population, but all Muslim communities, including Indians, Africans, and Middle Easterners were represented at the Souk. The event is a fusion of South African culture and Islamic heritage. It provides Muslims with an opportunity to express pride in their Islamic identity. The decision to hold the event over the festive season was well thought-out. It was held from December 23, 2005-January 1, 2006 with massive crowds attending over the weekends.

Asiya Amod, chief operating officer, elaborated, "This period is holiday season worldwide. We wanted to attract people from all over the world and, al-hamdu lillah, we succeeded. We received visitors from Australia, the UK, India, and the Middle East. But most importantly, we wanted to provide halal entertainment. We wanted our youth to be in a good environment and not out partying."

Judging from the large number of young people, the Al-Ansaar Foundation has indeed achieved its aim. And equally important, it provided elderly people with a safe place to spend their time. An old man in his 70s commented, "Many of us old people are lonely. Our friends have gone and the shopping malls are not for us. The Souk is good. We can sit and listen to the nasheed [Islamic song] singers and the radio presenters all day. And the busy atmosphere eases the emptiness," he added melancholically.

It is not only Muslims who flocked to the Souk. Many non-Muslims also praised the sterling service the Al-Ansaar Foundation has provided.

The indoor area was a hive of activity. Turkish waiters glided through the crowd, delivering tiny cups of strong coffee and refreshing mint tea. Stallholders gathered together from all across the globe, most notably from India, Jordan, Syria, Egypt, Turkey, and Iran. I drifted through a haze of conversations exchanged in a multitude of languages. A group of Egyptian men, wearing colorful scarves wrapped around their heads, formed a circle and performed a traditional folk dance. People gathered, clapping rhythmically. Traditional swords were brandished, and they whirled round and round, faster and faster, ending to a crescendo of applause.

A voice over a loudspeaker called out, "All scarves 10 rand, only 10 rand."

A rush of women were upon the table in an instant, expertly selecting and discarding the merchandise. Later, the same scarves went for a mere 5 rand. Exquisite jewelry enticed shoppers' eyes. Beautiful beaded abayas begged to be bought. Intricate, embroidered bed throws and pillowcases purred to be slept on. Punjabi clothes, flowing peasant skirts, kurti shirts, flat sandals, high heels, and handbags — all were beaded and dazzling to the eye.

At the indoor stage, a muezzin called out the Adhan. His clear, strong voice rang through the hub of the crowd, silencing the faithful to sweet surrender. Men, women, and children all prostrated before God in prayer.

Talib al-Habib

After the `Isha' Prayer, Hafiz Wadi, a Radio Al-Ansaar presenter, introduced the highlight of the Souk — the nasheed festival. The line-up of performers was impressive, with Talib al-Habib from the UK, Sheikh Ghazzali of Australia, and Inayat Petker from America. South Africa also had a magnificent repertoire of artists of its own represented at the festival, including Shaheed Al-Kawn, Zain Bhikha, and Arif Subrathie, from Cape Town, and Reyhaan girls group from Port Elizabeth.

Talib al-Habib is undoubtedly the most popular artist on the program. His debut album Songs of Innocence provoked tears to roll openly down the cheeks of many.

Songs of Innocence is dedicated to his two beautiful little girls who provided the inspiration for the song:


To listen to a sound-bite from Talib al-Habib's album, click here


You lie there on your bed, with your sleepy eyes and your weary head. Rest and dream till morning comes again. I will sing my songs of innocence … So many roads before you spread. May the way, my child, lead you to our beloved friend.

Talib al-Habib is not only a psychiatrist, but also a student of tasawwuf (or Sufism, the Islamic science which focuses on the purification of the heart). He inspired the listeners of Radio Al-Ansaar with his talks on spirituality and advice on how to deal with the problems they face in life. He is a seeker of the Beloved, and his personality is as intriguing as his nasheeds. On his artistry he says, "I express my thoughts through my music and poetry. I am inspired by my wife and kids." Although he is accustomed to performing regularly on stage with other artists in the United Kingdom, Talib al-Habib expressed his satisfaction at the world-class line up at the Al-Ansaar Souk.

One of the other performers, Shaheed Al-Kawn, is a talented artist who makes use of "beat-boxing" (producing rhythmic sounds with the hands and mouth) in his songs. His style varies from mellow to rap, and he is a favorite with the younger crowd. As with Talib al-Habib, singing is not his only talent. Al-Kawn is an experienced radio presenter and martial arts expert, and the visitors of the Souk are fascinated by his display of Capoeira, a spectacular Brazilian art form that combines martial arts with acrobatics, music, and dance. Al-Kawn's albums are very popular in the United Kingdom and America, but South Africans are still conservative about Muslim rap.

It was well past midnight and activity slowly died down. The nasheed artists were reluctantly excused by the audience — some of whom wanted them to continue until dawn. Tired children yawned and were gathered up in their parents' arms. Stallholders packed up their wares and the venue emptied. Everybody headed home to a well-earned rest.


** Bibi Ayesha Wadvalla is a South African freelance writer and radio presenter. You can contact her at artculture_egypt@yahoo.co.uk.


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