The
history of the simple wooden handloom is as old as the history of cloth itself.
Soon after human culture became more diversified and man realized that there was
more to cover the body with than just animal skins or leaves, the loom was
invented much like the other things that mankind’s ingenuity and intelligence
produced. Clothing was a necessity as well as something that distinguished man
from animals. Moreover, men and women decided they needed different clothing as
their bodies are shaped differently. They also looked more attractive in
distinct clothing.
Over
time, handlooms started producing more refined cloth than the coarse kind that
they did in the beginning. As societies became more civilized and prosperous,
clothing became more refined. The wealthier one was, the better quality of
clothes one wore. From the flowing, silken robes of the royalty and rich to the
humble linen of the masses, looms wove cloth that suited everybody day and
night.
Khaddar
Now
that technology and fast-track solutions have taken hold of so many aspects of
our lives, most age-old traditions have taken a back seat. But in Pakistan, a
country that stands on the threshold of modernization yet still manages to hold
fast to its rich cultural heritage, some traditional crafts still hold strong.
In recent years, the popularity of handloom cloth, khaddar, and its uses
for garments as well as home linen, accessories, and more has brought an
interesting look to the fashion scene.
Khaddar
has become the biggest fashion statement in the country, not to mention that its
price is higher than that of any other cloth. Although looms retain their humble
design of simple wooden contraptions, the designers of khaddar today are
graduates and degree holders in fine arts. Their skills guide the deft fingers
of traditional weavers to create patterns and designs that are more befitting to
modern fashion. Yarn, too, has undergone great change. Cotton is soft and gets
softer as it is washed. Silk or organza has lovely translucent hues. Khaddar,
the coarse fabric of the past, has undergone great change as the art of weaving
cloth on traditional looms is being revived with a modern touch. There are a
number of outlets in Pakistan that have begun catering to the increasing demand
for this traditional material that is now preferred by more than a select few.
Khaadi
The
innovative revival of the centuries-old cloth has taken the fashion world by
storm. Khaadi, the brainchild of the husband and wife team Shamoon and Saira,
has grown from a small concern with just 15 workers to a large company with 500
employees. Shamoon and his wife, both graduates of the Indus Valley School of
Art and Architecture, started their small business by reviving and refining khaddar.
They soon opened an outlet on the fashionable Zamzama Street. After just seven
years, they now own a network of shops in various cities of Pakistan. They have
a team of seven designers, all from the Indus Valley School of Art and
Architecture, who come up with new designs every few weeks.
The
whole process starts with the dyeing of the thread. It is then wound in cones,
and a warp is made for the planned motif. Then the process of weaving starts. An
interesting technique used in silk is called naqshi and creates patterns
originating in the Mogol era. The loom used for this technique is different from
the one that weaves cotton. It has a Jacquard or jalla machine, which is
mounted at the top of the loom.
Ready-to-wear
embroidered kurtas for men and women are available at Khaadi in addition
to home textiles and colorful accessories such as slippers, handbags, book
covers, photo albums, and more. All the Khaadi outlets have been interestingly
designed and highlight the effects of light reflecting off and around the
fabrics. The sale of new designs is discontinued after initial production to
keep them exclusive.
Koel
 |
|
Silk
pouches at Koel
|
The
exclusive outlet for handloom material, Koel, is a boost to Pakistani culture.
The word koel means nightingale, and the shop's owner, Noorjehan Bilgrami,
is an avid connoisseur of all things ethnic. She started her career over a
decade ago, designing khaddar cloth in cotton and silk. In addition, she
offers block-printed cottons and silks in vibrant and innovative designs, as
well as intricately worked gold and silver embroidery on hand-woven silk and
made-to-order dresses. A dress worn by Noorjehan, whose name means “light of
the world,” is a statement of exclusivity and needs no introduction in
Pakistan.
Noorjehan
has now introduced furniture, ceramics, brassware, and bath fittings into her
store. Everything is exclusive and designed with perfection. Helped by her
enterprising daughter Sarah, she has only one outlet and has no desire to
advertise. Noorjehan’s hand-woven kurtas for men are extremely popular
for `Eid and weddings.
Noorjehan's
recently renovated outlet is a must-see if only for its interesting
architectural design that merges ethnic and modern materials and angles. The
simple brick courtyard containing a lily pond takes one away from the fast-paced
world outside. Shoes have to be removed before entering the two-story shop. The
entire floor is wooden and lined with stones and exudes an ethnic and oriental
touch.
The
silk room is a surreal journey into a glorious past when kings and queens
adorned themselves with the softest and most delicate hand-woven silks, woven
with extreme patience and concentration. Yards and yards of tempting hues and
shades line the shelves, including silk jacquard. Silk wraps can also be
purchased individually. Ensembles embellished with sequins, beads, and gold and
silver thread adorn the stands. It is difficult to leave without purchasing some
of the treasures on display.
Besides
these two major outlets for handloom cloth, there are several other outlets that
have started manufacturing khaddar on a smaller scale, such as Handloom
and Tana Bana. All of the outlets are situated on the fashionable shopping
street, Zamzama, and are a treat for tourists and visitors.
It
is interesting to note that in today’s fast-paced and high-tech world, people
are increasingly opting for the traditional. Machine-made cloth is durable,
comfortable, and often looks great. But perhaps in our space age world, there is
something lacking. Something plentiful in the past but not easily available
today: time. Everything is created to save time. Cars and planes transport us
with increasing speed, and every technological breakthrough is designed to move
things faster. Maybe the simple handloom is a reminder of times past when there
was no need to run so fast, eat so fast, and work so fast. Though people worked
hard, they still had time to sit down and watch the world go by. The rise of the
looms is a refreshing reminder that “old is indeed gold,” and that might be
the reason for their popularity in today’s world.
**
Fatima Sajid was the fashion coordinator for SHE magazine, the largest
circulated English magazine in Pakistan, for a year. She did a course in
creative writing from the Writing School in Australia. She has worked as a
freelance writer for the last five years and has written for the two leading
national dailies of Pakistan, The News and Dawn, in their Young World and Sci-tech
publications. She has also taught creative writing at the Center for Advanced
Studies (CAS) in Karachi.
